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  • Writer's pictureEric Elkins

Ode: Lamb Kebab Bowl at Dimestore Delibar

Lamb is a misunderstood protein. It’s rich and delicious, with a subtle, unique grassy flavor that sets it apart from other red meats. Even total grownups can feel intimidated when ordering or cooking it, thinking it’s a bit too exotic to prepare at home or having been raised eating gamey preparations that turned them off when they were young.

But for me? If you have lamb on the menu, I’m going to order it. The only thing that may make me second-guess is a duck dish with some sort of fruit sauce. Serve me lamb lollipops, a ragu with sous vide lamb shank, rare tenderloin on a bed of sautéed greens, a lamb burger, or just a mess o’ lamb barbacoa and some tortillas to wrap around it (#ifykyk). I’m 100% here for all the lamb in all its forms.

So I’m deeply grateful to have one of the most delicious and affordable lamb dishes in Denver available just a couple blocks from home.

Dimestore Delibar is likely best-known for their dimerolls — stupid-delicious sandwiches rolled up in panini dough and stuffed with total goodness, from savory meatloaf to chunks of poke tuna. The crispy, toasted bread is all soft in the middle and each bite has a satisfying crunch. It’s a comfort food burrito (and yes, most burritos are comfort food by default).

So to depart from the specialties of the house and order a lamb kebab bowl almost feels like you’re setting yourself up for disappointment.

But crank up your inner Stefon, because this dish has everything. The seasoned and spiced ground Colorado lamb sausages are skewered up the long way, topping an array of Mediterranean-inspired goodies, like pickled cucumber and red onion, lightly crispy potatoes, ricotta and raita, and (of course) green olives offering up an acid pop that brings the whole bowl together.

I like to slide the lamb off its sticks then cut it into pieces so that each bite is a mix of complementary flavors and textures.

For a lamb-lover like me, it’s an easy treat — healthy and satisfying. But it’s also the perfect entry-level dish for the semi-adventurous meat eater who’s lamb-curious. The meat is mild and approachable, not a smack in the face. And it goes so well with the other flavors in the dish, you may find yourself appreciating its subtle farmland notes.

If you’re skeptical about plunking down a small fortune for a high-end lamb dish when you’re not even sure you’ll like it, the lamb kebab bowl at Dimestore is an inexpensive gamble.

What do you have to lose?

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