Eric Elkins
Ode: The Smoked Beef Belly at LoHi SteakBar
After a dozen years, our neighborhood staple for late-night oysters and bad decisions shut its doors this week. More than a place to...
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Eric Elkins
- Jun 8, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: The Beef Curry Bowl at Kokoro
Simone likes to say she’s been going to Kokoro since before she was born, and it’s no lie. In our youth, her mom and I — always tight on...
Eric Elkins
- May 29, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: The Whole Happy Hour Menu at Jax Fish House
Let’s be honest. You go for the two-buck-a-shucks and order a couple dozen to start. Sure, they may not have been curated and served with...
Eric Elkins
- May 11, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: Wood Roasted Carrots at Ash’Kara
For a while, it seemed like carrots were everywhere. They were the next Brussels sprouts — no self-respecting menu was without them, and...
Eric Elkins
- Apr 29, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: The Korean Cornflake Dog at The Ginger Pig
You don’t believe it at first. The muchness of the whole thing. It arrives at your door wrapped in foil, like a Cheech and Chong joke,...
Eric Elkins
- Apr 20, 2022
- 3 min
Ode: Matzo Brei at Home
“This is the bread of affliction, the poor bread, which our ancestors ate in the land of Egypt. Let all who are hungry come and eat.”...
Eric Elkins
- Apr 15, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: Another Century at The Wild
We’re fortunate in Denver, because you never have to walk far to find a well-balanced negroni or its cold-weather cousin, the...
Eric Elkins
- Apr 3, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: Lamb Kebab Bowl at Dimestore Delibar
Lamb is a misunderstood protein. It’s rich and delicious, with a subtle, unique grassy flavor that sets it apart from other red meats....
Eric Elkins
- Mar 27, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: Duck Noodle Wonton Soup from Zoe Ma Ma
You know how sometimes you forget what day it is, but then you remember and it reminds you of something else and that makes you really...
Eric Elkins
- Mar 18, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: The Sloe Gin Fizz at Brass Tacks
“It’s like a grownup pink lemonade!” exclaimed my newly minted 21-year-old daughter last March, rapturous in her discovery. She was home...
Eric Elkins
- Mar 13, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: The Latke Reuben at Zaidy’s Deli & Bakery
I was one of many who shook my head in sadness when the news came that Zaidy’s was going the way of the dodo. I was also one of many who...
Eric Elkins
- Mar 4, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: The Spicy Tuna Poke at Ohana Island Kitchen
Look. You can find dozens of build-your-own bowl poke spots around town. Denver Poke Company has some of the freshest fish and the best...
Eric Elkins
- Feb 25, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: The Beef Tallow Candle and Fresh Bread from the Fifth String
I howled when Justin Brunson shuttered Old Major. The restaurant closing felt like more than just a loss for the neighborhood — it was...
Eric Elkins
- Feb 16, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: The Brown Butter Old Fashioned at Pony Up
A proper Old Fashioned has a simple formula: some sweet, some bitters, some whiskey. Drop in a big rock, give it a healthy stir, garnish...
Eric Elkins
- Feb 10, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: Scallion Pancakes at Peter’s Chinese Cafe
Yeah, yeah, I know what you’re going to say. The best Chinese food is on South Federal, where you can explore the joys of dim sum at Star...
Eric Elkins
- Jan 30, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: Ropa Vieja from Super Mega Bien
By Eric Elkins Sure, I could wax all day about the goat or short rib from Work and Class. And the lamb barbacoa at Super Mega Bien, all...
Eric Elkins
- Jan 9, 2022
- 1 min
Ode: La Emmabella at The Bindery
When my daughter is home in Denver, she always wants a “super-eggy” in the morning — which was my dad’s term for egg-in-a-basket or...
Eric Elkins
- Jan 9, 2022
- 2 min
Ode: The Squeaky Bean Cheeseburger
Although a few successors nearly took up the mantle (RIP Royal Rooster and Brass Tacks) and several current Denver burgers are nearly as...
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